Ice Climbing Screws

For most routes, prioritize 13–16 cm screws as your go-to for thick ice pitches since they cover typical WI climbs. Keep a 10 cm stubbie for thin or hard ice and a 22 cm for fat ice or v-threads, and models like the Black Diamond Express Ice Screw work well in the 13–16 cm range.

If you’re dealing with shallow or very hard ice, stubbies (10 cm) give the best placements without over-penetrating fragile layers. Reserve 22 cm screws for deep, soft ice or when you need to build v-threads or robust rappel anchors.

Most climbers rack 7–12 screws depending on pitch length and difficulty, with the majority in the 13–16 cm range for versatility. Add a couple of 10 cm stubbies and maybe one 22 cm screw when conditions call for thin ice placements or v-thread anchors.

Lightweight aero models excel when ice is thin, offering quicker placement and less pack weight, but they trade some bulk compared with heavier steel screws. They’re generally made from lightweight steel alloys with 3-tooth tips, and many modern screws carry UIAA/CE certifications and factor-2 fall ratings around 10 kN.

Screws with high-relief threads, tapered tubes, and 3-tooth tips bite faster and resist fracturing better in variable ice. Ergonomic T-handles, laser-cut teeth for hard ice, and load-limiting slings all speed placements and increase durability, as seen on models like the Petzl Laser Speed.