Pulleys

Think about the task: fixed pulleys like the CAMP USA Sphinx suit simple redirection for hauling and anchors, while mobile pulleys excel in crevasse rescue and improvised hauling. For glacier travel or high-angle rescue consider a progress-capture unit such as the Petzl Micro Traxion with its ratcheting pull.

Match the sheave to your rope — most dynamic ropes fall in the 8–11mm range, so pick a pulley that accommodates that diameter and consider sheave sizes from about 25–50mm to reduce bend wear. A correctly sized sheave preserves rope life and helps the pulley maintain efficiency during hauling.

For ultralight hunts favor minimalist options like the Pynch Pulley, which offers roughly 1550lb strength at about 0.2oz, or the Petzl Oscillante at 18g for extreme packability. These parts save weight but trade off some heavy‑duty durability, so use them where abrasion and impact are minimal.

Choose a double sheave or multi-pulley layout when your haul requires more mechanical advantage; models like the Dryad Pro Small Double enable compound systems approaching a 5:1 advantage. Simple Z‑rigs can still be highly efficient — often around 95% in a basic 3:1 setup — so balance complexity with the load you need to move.

Rescue pulleys are built from tough materials such as heat‑treated aluminum and high‑carbon stainless steel and often feature sealed bearings to fight mud and ice. Check for mountaineering certifications like CE/UIAA or EN 12278 and heavy-duty ratings up to 24 kN on some Petzl models when durability in wet alpine conditions matters.