Pitons & Hooks

For medium to large cracks on big walls, Lost Arrow and Corner pitons are the usual choices, with thin Lost Arrows sizing around the 9–15mm range. Blade and Bugaboo pitons work better in thin, deep cracks, while RURPs and beaks handle shallow seams and hammerless placements.

Match the piton taper and shape to the crack—thin Lost Arrows (around 9–15mm) are meant for precise medium cracks. Also consider overall length and reach, from short units under 50mm to long pitons over 100mm, and inspect blade straightness for reliable passive placement.

Chrome‑moly steel, whether hot‑forged or cold‑drawn, gives strength and a predictable taper, while sheet steel Corners deform to absorb load. Hardened steel beaks withstand repeated hooking and rust‑resistant coatings help longevity in wet alpine or big wall conditions.

Tensile strengths typically range from 3000–8000 lbf (13–35 kN), so use the published kN numbers when evaluating gear; Black Diamond Lost Arrows are often rated around 15–20 kN and many Petzl hooks are nearer 10 kN. Keep in mind there’s no universal UIAA certification for pitons because placement variability affects real‑world strength.

Hooks like Fifi and Grappling excel on soft rock, tension traverses, and temporary aid placements, and models such as the CAMP Fifi Hook are designed for quick, non‑permanent use. Hammer‑driven pitons are better when you need a more permanent placement in medium to large cracks or when passive placement with a longer taper is required.