Black Ice & Snow Anchors

Match the anchor to conditions: snow pickets hold well in firm snow and glacier travel while flukes excel in soft, unconsolidated snow by self-burying. Ice screws are intended for hard ice and steep ice climbing, and come in 13, 17, and 22 cm lengths for different ice thicknesses.

A good rule is to match picket length to snow depth — most pickets range from 24 to 36 inches so you get proper penetration. Vertical top-clip pickets are fast for firm snow and running belays, while mid-clip or T-trench (horizontal) placements give superior pull-out resistance in variable conditions.

In deep snow, orient a fluke so it can self-bury by angling the bent plate about 40 degrees downslope and burying it so the cable is centered. Flukes like the Petzl Snow Fluke are typically about 8 by 10 inches (20 by 25 cm) and will bite under load when set in unconsolidated snow.

Opt for a mid-clip picket when you need greater pull-out resistance for heavier loads or unpredictable snow, since the mid-clip hole improves holding strength. Models like the Aspiring mid-clip stake are built from aluminum and reinforced at attachment points to handle stronger loads.

For hard ice, pick screws long enough to engage solid ice—13 cm suits thin sections while 17 and 22 cm screws work better for thicker ice. Ice screws are threaded hollow tubes with hangers for clipping and some have extendable handles to speed placement, so choose length based on ice thickness and clipping needs.