Red Carabiners

Pear-shaped (HMS) carabiners are designed for belaying and anchors because their larger baskets accommodate ropes and devices without jamming. Full-size HMS options often weigh over 80g, which helps keep ropes running smoothly during rappels and multi-pitch belays.

Wire-gate carabiners are great for trad quickdraws and lightweight setups because they resist dirt and cut weight—models like the CAMP Photon Wire are only about 33g. Solid gates give a slightly larger, more stable basket for clipping, so pick a solid-gate if you want easier clipping with thicker ropes.

Aluminum is the go-to for mountaineering and sport climbing thanks to its light strength, while steel is preferable for heavy rigging or fixed anchors because it endures wear much better. Titanium alloys like Grade 5 Ti-6Al-4V offer ultralight premium builds at around 9g if weight savings are critical.

A gate opening above 20mm makes clipping noticeably easier, and premium models can reach 27–30mm for even smoother rope entry. Keep in mind wire gates often have narrower baskets to save weight and may snag, so choose a wider gate if you frequently clip bulky ropes or devices.

Locking carabiners are preferable for belays, rappels, anchors, or any high-risk rigging; options include screwgates, twist-locks, and auto-locking triples. For example, a Black Diamond RockLock Screwgate is rated around 20kN on the major axis for reliable belays, while an auto-locking Petzl William Triact-Lock offers about 27kN across axes for versatile, secure use.